My blog readers know that I spend a LOT of time trolling in the winter, spring, summer, and fall. This technique can be a bit boring but is a highly-efficient way to target salmonids (click here and here for examples) and non-salmonids (click here and here for examples) by probing large areas of their habitat using multiple lures. I deploy two different sets of “tools” to support my trolling addiction: lead core line and a portable downrigger. This blog discusses the latter, and more specifically the setup that I have used for years, and which has worked well for me. For the record, I also troll using floating Rapalas, but that approach is fundamentally different from placing lures at depth and is therefore not discussed further.
The basics are the same, regardless of which type of portable downrigger is used. At its core, this device consists of an angler-controlled manual spool containing a thin, stainless-steel cable to which is clipped a downrigger weight holding the fishing line and lures that are lowered into the water column to a specific depth. I troll extensively using both my motorboat and canoe. However, a downrigger is not meant to be used in a canoe because the angler needs both arms to paddle which leaves no extra arms available to work the downrigger without slowing down the canoe and causing the lures to sink to the bottom where they can get stuck or snag plant material. Hence, this method should only be used on a motorboat.
Also, keep in mind that a portable downrigger has limitations which need to be appreciated. I do all my trolling on Maine ponds and lakes in the top 40 ft of the water column. Manually cranking a weight up or down 100+ ft. would be inefficient and a royal pain! Also, a small portable downrigger only works with a relatively light weight (mine is a 4 pounder). Even when trolling slowly, the water resistance against both the weight and the stainless-steel cable dangling into the water column causes a noticeable angle in the cable. As a result, the depth counter may indicate “80 ft.”, but the downrigger weight may only be 65 ft. deep because of this slant. Also, a portable downrigger is attached to the side of a boat by a single pressure screw instead of a permanently-bolted system. There is a limit to just how much such a simple system can withstand a downward-pulling weight and sideways-pushing pressure. Hence, the descriptions provided in this blog reflect my own fishing preferences and may not work if one plans on trolling much deeper than 40 ft.
The major components of a portable downrigger system are presented below:
The portable downrigger: I use a Cannon Mini-Troll Manual Downrigger spooled with 100 ft. of stainless-steel cable. This model is designed specifically for smaller boats; mine is a 14-ft. aluminum craft. Not only does this downrigger provide great value, but it is compact, sturdy, well-build, and versatile. Below are the main reasons this piece of equipment works for me: a) the mounting bracket makes it easy and quick to install and uninstall the device anywhere on the side of a boat, i.e., it does not require a permanent mount (note: I place two half-inch wide pieces of wood on the inside and outside of the boat to protect the boat walls from scratches and scrapes); b) the numerical wheel counter placed at the end of the boom makes it easy to keep track of the depth of the downrigger weight; c) one full turn of the crank handle equals a 1-foot gain or drop by the downrigger weight; and d) the large plastic wing nut on top of the cable spool can be tightened/untightened with the same hand doing the winching, which is convenient.
The downrigger weight: The downrigger weight represents the business end of this system. It places the fishing line with the lures at the right depth and keeps them there. Two separate items are attached to this weight: a) the steel cable that connects to the spool on top of the downrigger, and b) the quick-release clip that holds the fishing line pulling the lures. Downrigger weights come in all different shapes, sizes, and masses. As explained earlier, I typically troll in the top 40 or so feet of the water column and use a 4-pound weight for this purpose. You may need to use a heavier weight if you plan on trolling deeper, such as for lake trout or landlocked salmon well below the thermocline in the summer. Regardless, the Mini-Troll can only handle a downrigger weight up to 8 pounds. It is an excellent idea to bring a spare weight with you on the boat in case the original one gets stuck in boulders on the bottom and the cable needs to be cut (read the last paragraph of this blog for details).
The line terminator clip: This specialized clip connects the stainless-steel cable to a small metal ring at the top of the downrigger weight. Even though the cable has a clip when purchased new, it is a good idea to have a spare in case the weight gets stuck on the bottom and the cable needs to be cut.
Quick-release clip: This clip attaches to a small metal ring at the tail end of the downrigger weight and pinches the fishing line that pulls the lures. Hence, it connects the rod in the boat to the lures below. Quick-release clips come in different shapes and styles. They are all designed to do the same thing, i.e., release the fishing line when a (big) fish gets hooked and pulls the line out of the clip or when the angler grabs the rod and flings it backwards to unclip the fishing line. My quick-release clip model has three settings: light, medium, and hard. I use the medium setting because “light” does not hold onto the line very well and will cause it to accidentally unclip from the release during the setup or while trolling, which is a pain, whereas “hard” holds on to the fishing line too strongly making it difficult to unclip.
The rod holder: A simple removable rod holder can be installed next to the downrigger to hold the rod once the lures have been deployed. I personally do not bother with a rod holder anymore when I troll from my boat because I lean the rod against the side of the boat and jam the butt against the center bench. That makes the rod immediately accessible because I do not have to stand up to handle it. But I realize that this approach may not work for everyone or at all times. I do have two removable rod holders in my downrigger bag just in case…
Congratulations! You purchased a new portable downrigger and its accessories, have affixed the device to your boat, and are excited to start catching fish with it! Follow the steps outlined below to properly deploy your lures.
- Release enough of the steel cable to bring the downrigger weight inside the boat. It is much easier – and safer – to attach the fishing line to the quick-release clip when the weight is not rocking back and forth on the boom outside of the boat.
- Fully open the quick-release clip attached to the downrigger weight.
- Take the spinning rod and cast out your lure(s) 30-40 ft. behind the boat.
- Close the bail of the spinning reel, fully untighten the spool-release knob on the reel, grab the fishing line by the tip of the rod, and place your rod down.
- Take the fishing line between your fingers, make a small loop in the line, place this loop in the quick-release clip, and close the clip (note: each type of clip holds to the line somewhat differently, depending on make and model).
- Carefully place the downrigger weight with the clipped fishing line on the outside of the boat, letting it hang from the downrigger arm. You should have no more than one ft. of cable between the boom and the weight (i.e., the downrigger weight hangs above the water).
- Slowly untighten the wingnut at the top of the cable spool and turn the manual spool counterclockwise to lower the weight in the water column. Count the number of turns (1 turn = 1 ft.) or track the depth counter until the weight reaches its target depth. Line from the spinning reel will freely come off as the weight descends.
- Tighten the wing nut on top of the downrigger to prevent the cable spool from turning any further.
- Tighten the spool-release knob on your spinning reel (do not over tighten it).
- Gently reel in the extra monofilament line until all the slack between the rod tip and the quick-release clip is removed and the rod has a bend to it. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the rod to avoid accidentally unclipping the fishing line because otherwise you must start all over again…
- Place the rod in its holder and keep an eye on the rod tip. Most fish that get hooked on the lure will not automatically unclip the fishing line but will struggle, causing the rod tip to shake. Only bigger fish (4+ pounds) are large enough to consistently release the fishing line from the quick-release clip by themselves.
- Immediately grab the rod when the tip shakes, swing it hard to release the fishing line from the clip, and fight the fish directly. Depending on the size of the fish at the other end, you may want to idle the engine to slow down the boat.
I make it a conscious habit to kneel down on the floor of my boat when futzing with the downrigger, the weight, the quick release clip, or the fishing line. Standing up in a small boat in the middle of a lake being tossed around by waves or wind is an invitation for falling inside or outside of it. The latter is a recipe for disaster, particularly when trolling early or late in the open-water season when the surface water temperature is only in the 30’s or 40’s…
I will end this blog by mentioning a key point: ALWAYS use a depth finder when fishing with a downrigger. You want to keep at least 5 ft. between the weight and the bottom, if only to prevent the lures from getting stuck or grabbing vegetation. The worse that can happen (and I speak from personal experience…) is for the downrigger weight to wedge itself among large boulders on the bottom. The stainless-steel cable is strong and will not readily break. Momentum plus wind pushing your boat along might eventually snap the cable but not before pulling the side of your boat dangerously down or ripping the whole downrigger into the water… I have learned my lesson the hard way and carry a wire cutter to cut the cable, if needed.
Was the information in this blog useful? I invite you to share your thoughts and opinions.
Tight lines, y’all.
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Stan, first of all, your attention to detail is amazing. Your warning about not kneeling in my BOAT could be a lifesaver. Next, I’m going to rush out before the snow on Thursday and get a wire cutter for cable / anchor line / hook removal because I just don’t know when (not if) i’m gonna catch a rock or tree or me. I’m also going over to New Meadows Marina to pick up an extra anchor and spool of line for safety’s sake.
My boat is a Polar Kraft and I’d like to mount a depth finder on port side near my transom mounted trolling motor. What’s your advice on brand / size, without breaking the bank?
Tight lines,
Martin in Maine.
Hi Martin,
I’m glad that my downrigger blog got the mental juices flowing! I think that it is important to include safety warnings when needed. I’ve been in this line of work long enough to have experienced some scary moments with stuck downrigger weights that could have turned out badly. There’s no need for that!
Re. a depth finder: they literally come in all shapes, sizes, functionalities, and prices. My philosophy is that one would have to have a damn good reason to pay more than, say, $250 for a depth finder. Frankly, the only thing I use my device for is to track … depth. I don’t need fancy bells and whistles or GPS tracking capabilities. But that’s me and it reflects my fishing style: with notable exceptions, I like fishing on smaller ponds and lakes where I cannot get “lost”.
Tight lines and good luck.
Stan, it is remarkable how similar we are. When I read your reply this morning I felt we are definitely on the same page. I too am from the “small pond school” but do keep a small roll of orange safety tape so when I venture onto a new / unfamiliar pond I can mark the put-in with a longer piece of tape just for comfort sake on my return.
BTW, this might be minutiae, but soon Yarmouth will post the opening summer dates for the 3-day Yarmouth Anglers Camp, for 3rd to 6th graders wanting to try fishing.
Tight lines,
Martin in Maine
Stan, it’s scary how much you and I think alike. Safety first. And depth finders over $250 are unnecessary. If we can’t figure out where the fish are, I think we should turn in our bobbers.
Martin in Maine.